(Posted one month late due to internet problems)
Last Wednesday Chris and I were invited to our first Nepali
wedding, a concept in Nepal signifying 24 hours of eating, drinking and
dancing.
We arrived at school in the morning to be presented with two
glossy, scented leaflets, made out to ‘Shayam’ and ‘Krish’. These, we were informed, were wedding
invitations. All the teachers were
invited on account of the fact that the bride was in class 10.
We duly rocked up at the scene of the festivities after school. It was not hard to find- the music and
dancing had being going on all of the previous day and night... On arrival, as usual, mutters went around at
the prospect of the white boys dancing.
Before the ritual humiliation could commence though, we were ushered
into a low, smokey kitchen where we found a circle of Nepalis eating and the
bride and groom seated at one end of the room.
Before food, we had to pay our respects.
This involved handing over our present (some touristy fudge from
Heathrow airport) and smearing tika (coloured powder) all over their
foreheads. Bearing in mind we were
probably the 200th people to do this, they were absolutely covered.
This ritual completed, we were handed a towering pile of sel
rotis (chewy savoury donuts), curried potatoes and mutton. We absolutely stuffed ourselves as the food
kept on coming. This turned out to be a
huge mistake as, by the end of the evening, we had been handed 3 more full
meals and then another 4 over the following morning and afternoon. In fact, after 24 hours we had consumed 8
full meals, each one twice the size of what I would generally consider a
healthy dinner...
Between eating, the main order of the day was dancing. I honestly think we were quite good this time
(we’ve done it so many times we have to be getting better now). One particularly odd dance involved a
slightly boisterous woman of 40 stalking Chris and me round the dance floor
(former vegetable patch) to uproarious laughter from the 100 strong crowd of
onlookers. This was unnerving to say the
least, bordering on traumatic.
The final essential component of this, and every other,
Nepali wedding was Raksi (home brewed rice or millet spirit, cheap as it is
disgusting). Every meal involved at
least 2 full glasses. At one point, when
it was clear saying “enough” was not going to have any effect, I put my hand
over my mug. To my dismay, the Raksi was
poured over my hand and through my fingers.
Later on, when I was feeling pretty grim, dehydrated and generally
unhappy, some of the teachers spotted me and shouted, “Samsir, eta, cheesho
pani, cheesho pani!” (here, cold water, cold water). I gratefully lifted up the jug and started
drinking. I was two gulps down when I
noticed the laughter and realised I was in fact drinking yet more Raksi. It is genuinely harder to find water than
alcohol at these events...
The whole affair lasted late into the Wednesday night, into
Thursday morning, afternoon and night.
We of course had to teach lessons on Thursday so didn’t quite manage a
full night. We did however spend all of
our free periods and lunch time eating and dancing. By the end we were pretty well beaten. I passed a grim night on Thursday and Chris
was out of action for the whole of Saturday.
The effects of sleep deprivation, alcohol consumption and major
over-eating took a heavy toll, but even so, bring on the next one...
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